Sushi Omakase, Jyanoichi Honten, in Tokyo

Jyanoichi’s main store is a holy site among Japanese literature aficionados. The restaurant’s unusual name—a pun on the snake-eye motif in Japanese culture—was bestowed on it by the famed novelist Nagoya Shiga, and it is rumored to be the setting of the opening scenes of his story, The Shopboy’s God.

The restaurant is also popular with those who don’t know Shiga’s work, but appreciate the five generations that Jyanoichi has been making authentic Edomae sushi with traditional techniques that have long been forsaken by newer establishments. The rice has only water, Mitsukan red vinegar, and salt from the shores of the Noto Peninsula added. The fish is chosen fresh daily from the Toyosu Fish Market.

Two items on the menu are of particular note: conger eel nigiri in sweet sauce reduction, and nonojimaki, an Edomae-style sushi roll with sesame seeds, sweet egg omelet, and dried seaweed.